Girard Hot Water Heater
Determined not to be defeated by a machine, I made a last attempt at research and I FINALLY figured out how to get consistent hot water - not hot, then freezing, then warm, not scalding and them shutting off, but a real shower with consistent hot water AND hot water in the kitchen sink (which was also an issue). If this sounds familiar, here is the adjustment you need.
Managing Your Girard Tankless Water Heater - Jennifer Eggers
After 2.5 seasons, 3 trips to my “local” dealer, 2 calls to Girard, countless You Tube videos, one mobile tech, a new freeze sensor, and a trip to Jackson Center, I was about to throw in the towel and buy a Truma. But determined not to be defeated by a machine, I made a last attempt at research and I FINALLY figured out how to get consistent hot water - not hot, then freezing, then warm, not scalding and them shutting off, but a real shower with consistent hot water AND hot water in the kitchen sink (which was also an issue). If this sounds familiar, here is the adjustment you need.
On the back of your water heater (mine is under the bathroom sink), there is a flow adjustment knob. It is labeled Max/Min but it is the only knob back there so you can’t miss it. If this is not adjusted properly, your water heater will not be consistent. Here’s why:
Your water heater works on flow. It’s a common misconception that it is driven by water pressure. Pressure and flow are different. The rate at which water flows over the heating elements determines its ability to maintain a consistent temperature. If water crosses the heating element too fast, it will get to temperature quickly, but once you use the first gallon or so, it will not stay hot because the water isn’t spending enough time on the heating element. This is why it starts hot and just about when you get the shampoo on your head, it turns ice cold. Conversely, if the water spends too much time on the heating element, it will overheat. If you’ve ever had your water temperature shoot up to 145 and shut off the heater, displaying an E3 code, this is very likely what’s happening. (E3 can also be a propane issue if this doesn’t solve it). Here’s how to fix it:
Set the hot water temperature where you want it in the shower. Mine is set at 108 degrees. Find that knob on the back of your water heater and turn it all the way to the right (the lowest flow possible). This is easiest to do if you can reach your shower wand while you’re doing this, but if you can’t, get a friend to help. Turn the hot water on in your shower. It doesn’t actually have to get hot (you don’t have to wait), you just need the water coming from the hot side. While you feel the pressure of the water in the shower, slowly turn the flow adjustment knob to the left (increasing the flow). You should begin to feel the water pressure in the shower increase. Continue turning until the water pressure in the shower STOPS increasing. The back off the flow adjustment just a bit (back to the right). This should fix the temperature issues in your shower and allow for consistent hot water. This also allowed me to use either the water pump OR city water equally effectively WITHOUT using both, although both will give you a bit more water pressure.
If you are struggling with no hot water in your kitchen sink, pull out your sprayer and see if your flow increases, and the water turns hot. If it does, you likely have a kink in the sprayer line where the attached weight hits the shelf under your sink. Rearranging where the weight falls should fix this.
If the difference between pressure and flow is confusing, get your garden hose out without a nozzle and try to rinse a window 3 feet in front of you. You can’t. You’re at full flow but you have low pressure. Now put your thumb over the end to get the spray to reach the window. Viola! You have increased the pressure with the same flow. Pressure and flow are not the same.